Issey Miyake 132 5

image courtesy of Issey Miyake

‘1’ refers to the single piece of cloth for each item of apparel; ‘3’ to the three-dimensional shape and ‘2’ to the fact that it reduces to a flat two-dimensional form. The gap in the numbers signifies the time from ‘flat’ to ‘on the body’, and ‘5’ the transformations of the garment…and voilà Issey Miyake’s radically brilliant fashion line 132 5.

Mathematical beauty and elegant precision originating in the time-honoured Japanese tradition of origami combined with a revolutionary eco- friendly fabric has created an award winning range of unique fashion garments. In an extraordinarily successful collaboration of art and science, Issey Miyake’s creative genius and his in-house team of scientists, Reality Lab, in conjunction with associate professor and origami practitioner extraordinaire Mitani Jun have created an algorithm that allows 3D fashion wear and accessories to be folded into flat 2D forms, almost like an origami: ‘I didn’t have any idea about how to apply origami technology for clothing design. Because the folded 3D shape made with paper is fixed, I was surprised when I saw the shape of the cloth transform smoothly. I learned that the difference of the property of materials generates an unexpected effect.’ (Mitani Jun)

In Japan I’ve often referred affectionately to PET bottles (ペットボットル) thinking it was a typically cute Japanese way of referring to recyclable drink bottles! Actually it is an acronym for polyethylene terephthalate, ‘a thermoplastic polymer of the polyester family that can be decomposed at a molecular level and reprocessed as ultra-pure raw material ad infinitum. Compared to the production of virgin PET the recycled material reduces energy consumption and CO2 emissions by around 80% and does not lose quality with repeated processing.’ (Read More…)

Fashion is increasingly becoming the subject of museum exhibitions worldwide; with Alexander McQueen at the Met; British Ballgowns since 1950’s  at London’s V&A , and at the NGV Melbourne, Roger Leong’s brilliantly curated exhibitions, currently ballet and fashion. ‘In this world of fashion as art, ‘Miyake’s 132 5. collection has won the fashion prize at the Design Museum’s Design of the Year 2012 awards. In a diverse category – which included Sarah Burton‘s Alexander McQueen wedding dress for the Duchess of Cambridge, Mary Katrantzou’s Ming vase and Faberge egg inspired autumn/winter 2011 collection and the Moonraker-like interior of London’s Late Night Chameleon Cafe appointment-only store in Dalston – Miyake’s origami inspired collection was judged the strongest, winning the coveted design award.’ (Imogen Fox Tuesday 24 April 2012 The Guardian)

The Tribeca Issey Miyake store in New York (pictured right) is one of our favourite temptations in this great city and under the genteel guidance of merchandising manager Midori Takahashi, we confess that several 132 5. pieces have found their way into Melbourne wardrobes. A sure investment and future museum exhibit – and after all, buying art is our game!

Concept videos from Issey Miyake are available to view here

Above images are the property of Issey Miyake

Gallery director Lesley Kehoe (Right) wearing Issey Miyake at the opening of the Pauline Gandel Gallery of Japanese art at the NGV.
Photo by William Hung